The owners provide a representative dose of the Republic of Ireland, coming from Counties Cork and Tipperary. The food is hot and well-prepared, the drinks chilled and strong, and the company is cordial and merry. Plus, they’ve been around since 1868, about the time we got our Hell’s Kitchen moniker, so we can see what the stevedores saw, speak easy over bangers/mash, and belly up at the mahogany like a gastro-pub ruffian. If you want live trad music, show up on Monday nights.